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bazzawill at gmail

Oct 2, 2008, 5:13 AM

Post #1 of 8 (1592 views)
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Case suggestions

Hi guys,
I am in the market for a new backend/frontend for the lounge room and I
am looking for a nice looking full(not micro) case. Are there any case's
with LCD screen & remote receiver integrated that is well supported by
mythbuntu without too much hacking.
Regards,
Barry
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justin.johnson3 at gmail

Oct 2, 2008, 9:28 AM

Post #2 of 8 (1519 views)
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Re: Case suggestions [In reply to]

On Thu, Oct 2, 2008 at 7:13 AM, Barry Williams <bazzawill [at] gmail> wrote:
> Hi guys,
> I am in the market for a new backend/frontend for the lounge room and I
> am looking for a nice looking full(not micro) case. Are there any case's
> with LCD screen & remote receiver integrated that is well supported by
> mythbuntu without too much hacking.
> Regards,
> Barry
>
> _______________________________________________
> mythtv-users mailing list
> mythtv-users [at] mythtv
> http://mythtv.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/mythtv-users
>
>

I have an Antec Fusion case and absolutely love it, but it is
Micro-ATX so only 2 tuner cards.
http://www.antec.com/us/productDetails.php?ProdID=15733 Now it comes
with a remote too!

They do have another product:
http://www.antec.com/us/productDetails.php?ProdID=15727 that
supposedly fits a standard ATX board as well.
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newbury at mandamus

Oct 2, 2008, 1:16 PM

Post #3 of 8 (1520 views)
Permalink
Re: Case suggestions [In reply to]

Barry Williams wrote:
> Hi guys,
> I am in the market for a new backend/frontend for the lounge room and I
> am looking for a nice looking full(not micro) case. Are there any case's
> with LCD screen & remote receiver integrated that is well supported by
> mythbuntu without too much hacking.
> Regards,
> Barry
Take a look at the Silverstoneteck.com line of cases. They come in sizes
from 'audio-receiver' size four inches high like the LC-11M which has an
IR receiver and 2 line LCD, to larger more intrusive boxes, like the
Grandia GD02MT which has a 4.3" touchscreen.

Not necessarily cheap, but well built, well engineered and quiet.
I have the LC11M: the imon pad remote was easily set up with lirc and
the lcd works with lcdproc.

Only problem I have had was that the power LED on the front is a bright
piercing blue, and the LCD was also bright, both of which my wife hated.
I disconnected the power led and removed lcdproc.

Geoff

-
Please let me know if anything I say offends you.
I may wish to offend you again in the future.

Tux says: "Be regular. Eat cron flakes."
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raymond at wagnerrp

Oct 2, 2008, 2:01 PM

Post #4 of 8 (1523 views)
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Re: Case suggestions [In reply to]

R. G. Newbury wrote:
> Only problem I have had was that the power LED on the front is a bright
> piercing blue, and the LCD was also bright, both of which my wife hated.
> I disconnected the power led and removed lcdproc.
>

Why not just buy a sheet of transparency paper, print out gray, and
cover the LCD and LED. I'm sure there are plenty of other places you
could find cheap tinted filters as well.
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beww at beww

Oct 2, 2008, 2:03 PM

Post #5 of 8 (1511 views)
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Re: Case suggestions [In reply to]

Raymond Wagner wrote:
> R. G. Newbury wrote:
>> Only problem I have had was that the power LED on the front is a bright
>> piercing blue, and the LCD was also bright, both of which my wife hated.
>> I disconnected the power led and removed lcdproc.
>>
>
> Why not just buy a sheet of transparency paper, print out gray, and
> cover the LCD and LED. I'm sure there are plenty of other places you
> could find cheap tinted filters as well.

Or just paint nail polish of your favorite color over the LED.

Neutral density filters are available at camera stores and other outlets
to reduce the LCD brightness, or use one of those over-priced "privacy
filters".

beww
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newbury at mandamus

Oct 2, 2008, 4:07 PM

Post #6 of 8 (1508 views)
Permalink
Re: Case suggestions [In reply to]

Brian Wood wrote:
> Raymond Wagner wrote:
>> R. G. Newbury wrote:
>>> Only problem I have had was that the power LED on the front is a bright
>>> piercing blue, and the LCD was also bright, both of which my wife hated.
>>> I disconnected the power led and removed lcdproc.
>>>
>> Why not just buy a sheet of transparency paper, print out gray, and
>> cover the LCD and LED. I'm sure there are plenty of other places you
>> could find cheap tinted filters as well.
>
> Or just paint nail polish of your favorite color over the LED.
>
> Neutral density filters are available at camera stores and other outlets
> to reduce the LCD brightness, or use one of those over-priced "privacy
> filters".
> beww

All valid points but gee, guys, I don't need a light to tell me my
mythbox is running: it's ON all the time. The only times it wouldn't be
would be when the house power goes off. (OK, it could be re-booting...)

And it certainly would be ON if we were sitting watching TV!

As to the LCD, it was bright, and distracting and in the end not NEEDED.
Some people might NEED it on, but I don't. I don't need it for the time
or for the channel etc.

For that matter I also disconnected the hard drive LED as it's flashing
was also distracting.

Of course, the box sits directly below the TV right in line of sight...

Your Viewpoint May Vary!

Geoff




--
Please let me know if anything I say offends you.
I may wish to offend you again in the future.

Tux says: "Be regular. Eat cron flakes."
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mythtv at guiplot

Oct 2, 2008, 10:19 PM

Post #7 of 8 (1489 views)
Permalink
Re: Case suggestions [In reply to]

R. G. Newbury wrote:
> Brian Wood wrote:
>
>> Raymond Wagner wrote:
>>
>>> R. G. Newbury wrote:
>>>
>>>> Only problem I have had was that the power LED on the front is a bright
>>>> piercing blue, and the LCD was also bright, both of which my wife hated.
>>>> I disconnected the power led and removed lcdproc.
>>>>
>>>>
>>> Why not just buy a sheet of transparency paper, print out gray, and
>>> cover the LCD and LED. I'm sure there are plenty of other places you
>>> could find cheap tinted filters as well.
>>>
>> Or just paint nail polish of your favorite color over the LED.
>>
>> Neutral density filters are available at camera stores and other outlets
>> to reduce the LCD brightness, or use one of those over-priced "privacy
>> filters".
>> beww
>>
>
> All valid points but gee, guys, I don't need a light to tell me my
> mythbox is running: it's ON all the time. The only times it wouldn't be
> would be when the house power goes off. (OK, it could be re-booting...)
>
> And it certainly would be ON if we were sitting watching TV!
>
> As to the LCD, it was bright, and distracting and in the end not NEEDED.
> Some people might NEED it on, but I don't. I don't need it for the time
> or for the channel etc.
>
> For that matter I also disconnected the hard drive LED as it's flashing
> was also distracting.
>
> Of course, the box sits directly below the TV right in line of sight...
>
> Your Viewpoint May Vary!
>
I, too, found the SilverStone LED's WAY too bright. A 10K resistor in
series with each did the trick. I like being able to tell what kind of
HD activity is going on from the couch. I can tell it's recording
something at a glance and with the 10K resistor, the light is barely
visible, not distracting.

Also, I agree with Geoff that the LCD turned out to be a novelty that
wore off quickly. I ended up with the SilverStone LC01, which has
nothing visible. Very sleek and looks good in the stereo cabinet. I
had to add a reset button, though, as I was trying to get Windoze
working when I first built it. Long since gave up on that but I still
need it once in a while when mythfrontend gets stuck in some endless
loop of eating memory and swap that (virtually) hangs the machine. But
I digress... I just wanted to mention the 10K's.

DaveD

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newbury at mandamus

Oct 3, 2008, 8:18 AM

Post #8 of 8 (1457 views)
Permalink
Re: Case suggestions [In reply to]

DaveD wrote:
> R. G. Newbury wrote:
>> Brian Wood wrote:
>>
>>> Raymond Wagner wrote:
>>>
>>>> R. G. Newbury wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Only problem I have had was that the power LED on the front is a bright
>>>>> piercing blue, and the LCD was also bright, both of which my wife hated.
>>>>> I disconnected the power led and removed lcdproc.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> Why not just buy a sheet of transparency paper, print out gray, and
>>>> cover the LCD and LED. I'm sure there are plenty of other places you
>>>> could find cheap tinted filters as well.
>>>>
>>> Or just paint nail polish of your favorite color over the LED.
>>>
>>> Neutral density filters are available at camera stores and other outlets
>>> to reduce the LCD brightness, or use one of those over-priced "privacy
>>> filters".
>>> beww
>>>
>> All valid points but gee, guys, I don't need a light to tell me my
>> mythbox is running: it's ON all the time. The only times it wouldn't be
>> would be when the house power goes off. (OK, it could be re-booting...)
>>
>> And it certainly would be ON if we were sitting watching TV!
>>
>> As to the LCD, it was bright, and distracting and in the end not NEEDED.
>> Some people might NEED it on, but I don't. I don't need it for the time
>> or for the channel etc.
>>
>> For that matter I also disconnected the hard drive LED as it's flashing
>> was also distracting.
>>
>> Of course, the box sits directly below the TV right in line of sight...
>>
>> Your Viewpoint May Vary!
>>
> I, too, found the SilverStone LED's WAY too bright. A 10K resistor in
> series with each did the trick. I like being able to tell what kind of
> HD activity is going on from the couch. I can tell it's recording
> something at a glance and with the 10K resistor, the light is barely
> visible, not distracting.
>
> Also, I agree with Geoff that the LCD turned out to be a novelty that
> wore off quickly. I ended up with the SilverStone LC01, which has
> nothing visible. Very sleek and looks good in the stereo cabinet. I
> had to add a reset button, though, as I was trying to get Windoze
> working when I first built it. Long since gave up on that but I still
> need it once in a while when mythfrontend gets stuck in some endless
> loop of eating memory and swap that (virtually) hangs the machine. But
> I digress... I just wanted to mention the 10K's.
>

We digress further.....I always have a console available so that Alt-Tab
switches away from the hung mythfrontend. Then a killall mythfrontend
will work.
If myth is so hung that that won't work, then yes...reset is necessary.
The LC11 series have a reset button on the front.

To the OP: Back to case suggestions. Most of the 'audio receiver' style
cases have *horizontal* slots for your tuner cards. Logic Supply sell
riser cards, and flexible risers which allow your to fit your tuners. I
had a Via motherboard in my case for almost 2 years. Via make a special
2 slot riser which works in the single PCI slot on a Via motherboard. A
flexible riser and that 2 slot riser allowed me to fit my tuners without
difficulty into the case after I determined that there was no way to
make them fit in the usual manner. The flexible riser was maybe $20...


IIRC the LC11 came with a 2 slot riser and that is what I am presently
using in the case with my tuners.

Geoff


--
Please let me know if anything I say offends you.
I may wish to offend you again in the future.

Tux says: "Be regular. Eat cron flakes."
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