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Long coax (was Re: Questions about Hauppauge...)

 

 

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peter at vanderwal

Jul 3, 2008, 3:44 AM

Post #1 of 7 (426 views)
Permalink
Long coax (was Re: Questions about Hauppauge...)

> Thanks. I'll probably give it a try. For right now at least the STB,
> HD-PVR, and TV are all in the same general vicinity. I can probably
> get away with 3 foot runs (maybe even less,
-snip-
I may eventually
> move the HD-PVR closer to the back-end. This would mean probably a
> 25' run, but it sounds like even at that distance you are not having
> any quality issues.

I used the RapidRun coax system. It's a bundled, 5 coax, cable with a
single multipin connector on each end. Then you just buy appropriate wall
plates (HDMI, Component + audio, Composite + S-Video, etc.)
It's good quality stuff, easy to pull, and looks professional when you're
finished. Plus it's reasonably priced.

http://www.amazon.com/25ft-RapidRun-Video-Runner-Cable/dp/B000YTPA52/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&s=audio-video&qid=1215107352&sr=1-17
http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Go-RapidRun-Component-Wallplate-White/dp/B000CPQ7YQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1215107462&sr=1-2


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peter at vanderwal

Jul 3, 2008, 11:28 AM

Post #2 of 7 (380 views)
Permalink
Re: Long coax (was Re: Questions about Hauppauge...) [In reply to]

> Physical properties like bend radius, strength, weight, water resistance,
> UV
> resistance and others, as well as electrical properties like forward loss,
> maximum rated frequency, return loss, characteristic impedance and others
> all
> have to be considered in choosing the proper cable for a given
> application.
>
> Another very important factor, especially with RG-59/RG-6/RG-11 type
> cables
> that use crimp type connectors is that you must use the correct connector
> for
> the cable in use. There is no such thing as a "one size fits all" crimp
> connector, and a lot of problems happen because the wrong connector was
> used.
>
> There is a reason that hundreds of different types of coax cable and
> associated connectors are made, you have to choose the best one for a
> particular application. Just using what your local Radio Shack has in
> stock
> has led to a lot of problems :-)
>

Yup, That's why I went with the RapidRun.
Among all of the points you made, getting a good termination on coax can
be difficult (if you're not experienced) and can require special tools to
do it right.
RapidRun takes all of that out of the picture. It's relatively low loss,
bends easily, pulls easy, and all you have to do is pick the right ends
and plug them in and screw down the locking ring.
I have the tools and experience to terminate coax properly, but RapidRun
was so slick and easy, and professional looking, I'm glad I went with it.



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peter at vanderwal

Jul 3, 2008, 11:34 AM

Post #3 of 7 (380 views)
Permalink
Re: Long coax (was Re: Questions about Hauppauge...) [In reply to]

> And I would probably use these connectors:
> https://www.tselectronic.com/thomandbetts/sns.html
>
> and these adaptors
> https://www.tselectronic.com/gc/video/video_adaptor.html
>
> I stick to one connector type (type-F) because of the cost of the tool.

Ugh, yuck. F connectors?

Dude, you're loosing points for that ;-)

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allen.edwards at oldpaloalto

Jul 3, 2008, 12:32 PM

Post #4 of 7 (397 views)
Permalink
Re: Long coax (was Re: Questions about Hauppauge...) [In reply to]

Peter VanDerWal wrote:
>> Thanks. I'll probably give it a try. For right now at least the STB,
>> HD-PVR, and TV are all in the same general vicinity. I can probably
>> get away with 3 foot runs (maybe even less,
>>
> -snip-
> I may eventually
>
>> move the HD-PVR closer to the back-end. This would mean probably a
>> 25' run, but it sounds like even at that distance you are not having
>> any quality issues.
>>
>
> I used the RapidRun coax system. It's a bundled, 5 coax, cable with a
> single multipin connector on each end. Then you just buy appropriate wall
> plates (HDMI, Component + audio, Composite + S-Video, etc.)
> It's good quality stuff, easy to pull, and looks professional when you're
> finished. Plus it's reasonably priced.
>
> http://www.amazon.com/25ft-RapidRun-Video-Runner-Cable/dp/B000YTPA52/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&s=audio-video&qid=1215107352&sr=1-17
> http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Go-RapidRun-Component-Wallplate-White/dp/B000CPQ7YQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1215107462&sr=1-2
>
>
>
That is good looking cable and indeed reasonably priced.

Just to throw another option into the mix, I use this stuff:
https://www.tselectronic.com/belden/9116.html
One thing to consider in long runs is the loss in the cable. An easy
way to evaluate that is that the fatter the cable, the lower the loss.
A bundle of these will be much fatter, and thus much less loss than any
multimedia cable. On the other hand, what you listed is probably good
enough and has some other stuff in the bundle that makes it attractive
for applications where it fits.

It is hard to beat coax though. A 25 ft run of 3 coax cables would be
about $6. Of course, you have to buy 1000 feet to get that price. I
have a lot of cable left over but then again this is my second box.

I have used it for antenna feeds, S-Video, Component, Composite, and
audio (preamp out with distribution amp).

Just another option,

Allen


beww at beww

Jul 3, 2008, 12:59 PM

Post #5 of 7 (397 views)
Permalink
Re: Long coax (was Re: Questions about Hauppauge...) [In reply to]

On Thursday 03 July 2008 13:32:10 Alen Edwards wrote:
> Peter VanDerWal wrote:
> >> Thanks. I'll probably give it a try. For right now at least the STB,
> >> HD-PVR, and TV are all in the same general vicinity. I can probably
> >> get away with 3 foot runs (maybe even less,
> >
> > -snip-
> > I may eventually
> >
> >> move the HD-PVR closer to the back-end. This would mean probably a
> >> 25' run, but it sounds like even at that distance you are not having
> >> any quality issues.
> >
> > I used the RapidRun coax system. It's a bundled, 5 coax, cable with a
> > single multipin connector on each end. Then you just buy appropriate
> > wall plates (HDMI, Component + audio, Composite + S-Video, etc.)
> > It's good quality stuff, easy to pull, and looks professional when you're
> > finished. Plus it's reasonably priced.
> >
> > http://www.amazon.com/25ft-RapidRun-Video-Runner-Cable/dp/B000YTPA52/ref=
> >sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&s=audio-video&qid=1215107352&sr=1-17
> > http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Go-RapidRun-Component-Wallplate-White/dp/B00
> >0CPQ7YQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1215107462&sr=1-2
>
> That is good looking cable and indeed reasonably priced.
>
> Just to throw another option into the mix, I use this stuff:
> https://www.tselectronic.com/belden/9116.html
> One thing to consider in long runs is the loss in the cable. An easy
> way to evaluate that is that the fatter the cable, the lower the loss.
> A bundle of these will be much fatter, and thus much less loss than any
> multimedia cable. On the other hand, what you listed is probably good
> enough and has some other stuff in the bundle that makes it attractive
> for applications where it fits.
>
> It is hard to beat coax though. A 25 ft run of 3 coax cables would be
> about $6. Of course, you have to buy 1000 feet to get that price. I
> have a lot of cable left over but then again this is my second box.
>
> I have used it for antenna feeds, S-Video, Component, Composite, and
> audio (preamp out with distribution amp).

Different types of coax are designed for different uses. For example, the
Belden 9116 referred to above has a copper clad steel center conductor. This
is designed for CATV applications where mechanical strength is required, as
with aerial drops. Steel is not a great conductor, but at RF frequencies,
where the "skin effect" is a major factor, this is not a big issue, but I
would not use such cable for baseband video, where low frequency response is
required.

Obviously a steel center conductor has an impact on bend radius as well as
strength.

Some cable uses solid plastic dielectric, others use a foam type. Solid
plastic has greater strength, but at the cost of higher loss at RF
frequencies.

Soft-drawn copper is a great conductor, but has low strength and can't
tolerate a lot of flexing.

Times Wire and Cable once made (and maybe still do) a special "head end" cable
with a 60% silver/40% soft copper center conductor and a double copper braid.
This stuff weighed about 5 times what normal CATV cable weighed but had great
electrical properties (it was also very costly).

Multiple shields are sometimes required for CATV in some environments.
Aluminum shields are often used for CATV where low weight is a factor, as is
low cost.

Physical properties like bend radius, strength, weight, water resistance, UV
resistance and others, as well as electrical properties like forward loss,
maximum rated frequency, return loss, characteristic impedance and others all
have to be considered in choosing the proper cable for a given application.

Another very important factor, especially with RG-59/RG-6/RG-11 type cables
that use crimp type connectors is that you must use the correct connector for
the cable in use. There is no such thing as a "one size fits all" crimp
connector, and a lot of problems happen because the wrong connector was used.

There is a reason that hundreds of different types of coax cable and
associated connectors are made, you have to choose the best one for a
particular application. Just using what your local Radio Shack has in stock
has led to a lot of problems :-)

beww
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allen.edwards at oldpaloalto

Jul 3, 2008, 2:01 PM

Post #6 of 7 (397 views)
Permalink
Re: Long coax (was Re: Questions about Hauppauge...) [In reply to]

Brian Wood wrote:
> On Thursday 03 July 2008 13:32:10 Alen Edwards wrote:
>
>> Peter VanDerWal wrote:
>>
>>>> Thanks. I'll probably give it a try. For right now at least the STB,
>>>> HD-PVR, and TV are all in the same general vicinity. I can probably
>>>> get away with 3 foot runs (maybe even less,
>>>>
>>> -snip-
>>> I may eventually
>>>
>>>
>>>> move the HD-PVR closer to the back-end. This would mean probably a
>>>> 25' run, but it sounds like even at that distance you are not having
>>>> any quality issues.
>>>>
>>> I used the RapidRun coax system. It's a bundled, 5 coax, cable with a
>>> single multipin connector on each end. Then you just buy appropriate
>>> wall plates (HDMI, Component + audio, Composite + S-Video, etc.)
>>> It's good quality stuff, easy to pull, and looks professional when you're
>>> finished. Plus it's reasonably priced.
>>>
>>> http://www.amazon.com/25ft-RapidRun-Video-Runner-Cable/dp/B000YTPA52/ref=
>>> sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&s=audio-video&qid=1215107352&sr=1-17
>>> http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Go-RapidRun-Component-Wallplate-White/dp/B00
>>> 0CPQ7YQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1215107462&sr=1-2
>>>
>> That is good looking cable and indeed reasonably priced.
>>
>> Just to throw another option into the mix, I use this stuff:
>> https://www.tselectronic.com/belden/9116.html
>> One thing to consider in long runs is the loss in the cable. An easy
>> way to evaluate that is that the fatter the cable, the lower the loss.
>> A bundle of these will be much fatter, and thus much less loss than any
>> multimedia cable. On the other hand, what you listed is probably good
>> enough and has some other stuff in the bundle that makes it attractive
>> for applications where it fits.
>>
>> It is hard to beat coax though. A 25 ft run of 3 coax cables would be
>> about $6. Of course, you have to buy 1000 feet to get that price. I
>> have a lot of cable left over but then again this is my second box.
>>
>> I have used it for antenna feeds, S-Video, Component, Composite, and
>> audio (preamp out with distribution amp).
>>
>
> Different types of coax are designed for different uses. For example, the
> Belden 9116 referred to above has a copper clad steel center conductor. This
> is designed for CATV applications where mechanical strength is required, as
> with aerial drops. Steel is not a great conductor, but at RF frequencies,
> where the "skin effect" is a major factor, this is not a big issue, but I
> would not use such cable for baseband video, where low frequency response is
> required.
>
> Obviously a steel center conductor has an impact on bend radius as well as
> strength.
>
> Some cable uses solid plastic dielectric, others use a foam type. Solid
> plastic has greater strength, but at the cost of higher loss at RF
> frequencies.
>
> Soft-drawn copper is a great conductor, but has low strength and can't
> tolerate a lot of flexing.
>
> Times Wire and Cable once made (and maybe still do) a special "head end" cable
> with a 60% silver/40% soft copper center conductor and a double copper braid.
> This stuff weighed about 5 times what normal CATV cable weighed but had great
> electrical properties (it was also very costly).
>
> Multiple shields are sometimes required for CATV in some environments.
> Aluminum shields are often used for CATV where low weight is a factor, as is
> low cost.
>
> Physical properties like bend radius, strength, weight, water resistance, UV
> resistance and others, as well as electrical properties like forward loss,
> maximum rated frequency, return loss, characteristic impedance and others all
> have to be considered in choosing the proper cable for a given application.
>
> Another very important factor, especially with RG-59/RG-6/RG-11 type cables
> that use crimp type connectors is that you must use the correct connector for
> the cable in use. There is no such thing as a "one size fits all" crimp
> connector, and a lot of problems happen because the wrong connector was used.
>
> There is a reason that hundreds of different types of coax cable and
> associated connectors are made, you have to choose the best one for a
> particular application. Just using what your local Radio Shack has in stock
> has led to a lot of problems :-)
>
> beww
>
>
Everything you say is correct.

I actually use 1189A cable but it is about the same (coper coated steel
core). I do use it for all these applications and it works fine. I
bought this many years ago.

Today I would probably buy this cable:
https://www.tselectronic.com/belden/7915a.html

And I would probably use these connectors:
https://www.tselectronic.com/thomandbetts/sns.html

and these adaptors
https://www.tselectronic.com/gc/video/video_adaptor.html

I stick to one connector type (type-F) because of the cost of the tool.

I use this tool:
https://www.tselectronic.com/paladin/901024.html

On the other hand, the wire I used has .04dB loss at DC and .05 loss at
10MHz for 25 feet so maybe it isn't so bad in that the DC loss is about
the same as the 10MHz loss.

The small stuff that is in those multimedia cables have .01dB of loss at
DC (25 feet) and .3dB at 10MHz. Maybe not as flat and definitely more
loss at higher frequencies.
Remember 720p BW is 37MHz.

For sure, this type of cable did a much better job with S-Video than the
typical S-Video cable you can buy. With a long run (about 30 feet) my
old projector would not sync with standard S-Video cable but did fine
with RG-6U.

It is a very important point that this type of wire is not flexible.
It is for a fixed application.

Thanks for the interesting discussion,

Allen


allen.edwards at oldpaloalto

Jul 3, 2008, 10:22 PM

Post #7 of 7 (370 views)
Permalink
Re: Long coax (was Re: Questions about Hauppauge...) [In reply to]

I am probably on the losing end of this argument but in the about 10
years, 750 feet of coax, and almost 100 F-connectors I have never had a
problem with a connector in my home system. These are very high quality
connectors installed with a professional grade tool. They are not the
crimp connectors most people see at Radio Shack. They are what the
local cable folks use on the poles.

I am sure there are higher quality solutions out there, but that mini
coax in the nice package bundles is not one of them IF performance is
your goal. They certainly has a lot of nice things to say about it, but
don't short change good old fat coax. In RF, loss is related to
volume. Big is better.

If I had to constantly make and unmake the connection, I would not use
F-connectors. I have used BNC connectors, SMA, SMB, PL259, APC-7, RCA,
you name it I have probably used it. One of the most common problems
with installing a connector is getting the center pin soldered or
crimped properly to the center conductor. At least you never had that
problem with Type-F. For single or limited number of insertions, it is
just fine. Now, for BNC connections, I use a F to BNC adapter. You
make the F-connection once and have a BNC for the multiple insertions.
Of course, the biggest reason to use BNC is that your equipment has BNC
inputs. I have lots of adapters as my old projector used BNC. My new
one is HDMI. Now there is a POS connector.

People use type-f and RG-6U coax up to several GHz. It is certainly OK
up to video frequencies. It really is much better than mini coax. That
I have seen for sure. I have a bundle of 10 RG-6U run in the wall and
ceiling from my equipment to my projector. I mostly use the big fat DVI
cable now, but with my old projector I ran S-Video, component, and RGB
to the projector and they all worked great.

This is all I am going to say about coax. Do what you will. I am sure
it will be fine. Want to get into a real flaming discussion, get me
talking about speaker wire...

Allen




In terms of RCA connectors, there is no substitute when the equipment
has an RCA connection on it :-)
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